Dan Beland's Climbing Blog

Brief stop at Lake Louise

I had planned to stop at Lake Louise on the way to Alberta and Grassi Lakes in Canmore on the way back, but the weather pretty much killed all plans.

We did stop at Lake Louise on the way there.  It was sunny, warm, and beautiful out… time to climb!  We got around the backside of the lake and found an easy looking route which was not marked in the guide book but I would guess was about 5.9.  Shirt off, up I go.  Fun route on solid rock except for this dislodged flake up by the anchors which could be kicked loose if you’re not careful.

Amanda was next up.  She got about half way up and I shit you not, between leaving the ground and getting half way up it got cold as hell and started to snow!  So I jugged my way up to clean the gear and that was it for Lake Louise.

I looked at a few 5.12′s that looked like they would be a blast if I ever get back there.  The rock is really cool with solid little flat ledges everywhere.

On the way back from Alberta it was pouring in Canmore so instead of climbing I made the rounds of the local climbing shops.  One guy said that the Ghetto crag at Grassi Lakes might still be dry because of the overhang, but by then we had run out of time.  Next time!

First time climbing at Horne Lake, Amphitheatre

I had heard all the hype about Horne Lake and how it is THE place to go on Vancouver Island for hard and steep sport routes.   I was training at the gym 4-5 days a week and feeling strong after recovering from a shoulder injury a few months prior so I figured I better get up there and see what it’s all about.

The Report…

Horne Lake climbing is AWESOME!  I warmed up on a couple of 11a’s then got ready for the route I had been waiting to get on since first hearing about Horne Lake, Globetrotters.

At 5.13d, Globetrotters is way above any level of route I had been on before, so I was half expecting to get my ass handed to me.  But, to my surprise I ALMOST made it to the bolts (after several falls, of course).  I made it just past the 5th bolt before falling the first time.  From there on it was pretty much draw to draw until I got to the lip of the roof.

People tell me that those last few moves pulling the lip are the crux and I would tend to believe them.  It felt like it would go, but I was so bagged that I didn’t have enough strength left to complete it.  Next time perhaps.

Photos